Always the most reticent of Tremblay's communal bottlings, the 2021 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes unwinds in the glass with notions of sweet red berries, plums, orange rind, rose petals and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with satiny tannins and a bright, saline finish, it will offer an unusually broad drinking window this year.

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is, as usual, more reserved at this early stage. Exhibiting notions of plums, dark berry fruit, sweet spices and toasted bread, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, with bright acids and a long, resonant finish.

Revisited from bottle, the 2019 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is performing superbly, unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of wild berries and plums mingled with sweet spices, peonies, smoked duck and a deft framing of creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with a deep, layered core that's framed by succulent acids and powdery tannins, it's Tremblay's finest communal Vosne-Romanée to date.

As is generally the case, Trembaly's 2018 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is the most reserved and introverted wine in the cellar, and it always seems to take longer to show all its cards during élevage. Unwinding in the glass with notes of raspberries, blackberries, potpourri, spices, grilled squab and espresso roast, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and ripely tannic, with lively acids and a long, sapid finish.

Bursting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, exotic spices and smoked duck, the 2017 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is the broadest and most satiny of Tremblay's village wines, with a medium to full-bodied, fleshy profile that was still digesting some structuring tannin when I tasted it.