Mainly Clairette (Blanc and Rose) and Roussanne, with smaller amounts of Grenache (Blanc and Gris) and Bourboulenc, and tiny proportions of Picpoul (Blanc and Gris) and Picardan, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Boisrenard was fermented and matured entirely in wood, a mix of foudre (65%) and used barrique (35%). The result is toasty, honeyed and tinged with vanilla, but it also features assertive notes of lime, melon and tangerine. It's medium to full-bodied, generous and richly textured, with a long, mouthwatering finish. One of the top whites this vintage, and a perennial favorite, I typically advise drinking it young—within the first few years after release.

There are just 4,000 bottles of the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Boisrenard, which comes from 70- to 100-year-old vines. It's mainly Clairette and Roussanne, but includes the other four white varieties authorized in the appellation as well. Vinified and matured in large-format oak, it does show some classy hints of cedar shavings on the nose and a wonderfully slinky, silky texture on the medium to full-bodied palate, both serving to highlight the wine's restrained melon and citrus flavors. Impressively concentrated and balanced, I'd expect this to drink well for up to a decade, at which time it should be nicely truffled and almost decadent.

Beaurenard's top white—and one of the best in the appellation—is the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Cuvee Boisrenard, a wood-aged blend of 42% Clairette, 32% Roussanne, 11% Bourboulenc, 10% Grenache Blanc and bits of Grenache Gris, Picardan, Picpoul Blanc and Picpoul Gris. Subtle toast elements (it's fermented and aged in a mix of foudres and used barrels) frame ripe citrus and pineapple in a wine that's round, ripe and full-bodied, plush yet long and crisp on the finish.

The top white wine is the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Cuvee Boisrenard. About three-fourths of the blend is Clairette and Roussanne, but it also includes bits of Bourboulenc, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Picardan, Picpoul Blanc and Picpoul Gris. It's vinified and aged in foudres (65%) and barrels (35%). This forward, lush, tropical wine hints at honey on toast and caramel, but that richness is balanced by decent acidity, and the extended finish features sheer pineapple-vanilla deliciousness.

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Boisrenard blanc is essentially the same blend, but gets much more contact with lees and comes from much older vines, even though the blend is virtually identical. It is a richer, more honeyed wine with notes of citrus oil, ripe peach, and a hint of rose petal. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. One of the great old families of Chateauneuf du Pape, the Coulons have been biodynamically farming their vineyards for decades, which can’t be easy given the fact that they own over two dozen parcels spread throughout the appellation. The 2009s performed even better this year than they did last year prior to bottling. Both 2010s were primary and extremely young. Having tasted in Chateauneuf du Pape at the same time of year (usually 11-12 months after the harvest) for many years, few vintages seemed as young and primary as 2010 (others were 2007 and 1998).Importers: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin; Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100 and Ruby Wines, Avon, MA; tel. (508) 588-7007