Value seekers should search out Brunier's vin de pays, the 1997 Le Pigeoulet. A concoction of Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and a few other varietals, it is a round, fruity, medium ruby-colored wine revealing pepper, cherry fruit, a touch of cassis, and an elegant, soft personality. An ideal bistro selection, it is meant to be drunk during its first several years of life. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

Bargain seekers should check out Vieux-Telegraphe's vin de pays called Le Pigeoulet. The 1996 may not be as lush as the 1995, but it offers a dark ruby color, medium body, and plenty of straightforward, ripe, red and black fruits presented in an uncomplicated, drinkable style. It should be consumed over the next several years.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524