Hints of coffee and cola add depth and intrigue to the raspberry fruit in the full-bodied 2016 Vacqueyras les Hautes de la Ponche. It's big, plush and slightly warm on the palate, the kind of wine to cuddle up with on a cool autumn or winter night.

Fashioned from the same blend, the stunning 2010 Vacqueyras Les Hauts de la Ponce comes from old vines planted in clay and marne-like soil. Its opaque black/purple color is followed by huge notes of creamy blackberry and blueberry fruit intermixed with hints of graphite, damp earth, truffles and charcoal. This seductive, rich, full-bodied 2010 should drink well for a decade. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800No known American importer.

More open-knit, the 2009 Vacqueyras Les Hauts de la Ponce reveals a similar opaque ruby/purple color along with lush, succulent black fruit, cured meat, and smoked herb characteristics in its complex aromatics. Full-bodied with low acidity and sweet tannin, it should drink well for 6-7 years. It is a blend of 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 25% Mourvedre aged in cement. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800