Aged two years in 40% new oak, the 2015 Saint Joseph la Dame Brune is cedary and a bit open-knit. The cherry fruit notes underneath are silky and fresh in this medium to full-bodied wine, which seems more burdened by the level of oak treatment than enhanced by it. It's still a beauty, but for folks who enjoy oak.

From very old vines around the village of Chavanay, and aged two years in barrels (30% new), the 2013 Saint Joseph La Dame Brune sports a deep ruby color as well as a terrific nose of black raspberries, blackberries, hints of barrique and cured meats. It's a classic, layered, ripe Syrah that has a great finish. It will keep for a decade.