The 2020 Saint-Romain Sous la Velle exhibits aromas of confit lemon, citrus zest, bread dough and a deft touch of youthful reduction. Medium to full-bodied, taut and chalky, its fleshy core of fruit is girdled by racy acids. As usual, it's one of the more textural, complete wines in the range.

The 2019 Saint-Romain Sous la Velle is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with notes of lemon oil, grapefruit, clear honey, toasted nuts and a touch of light reduction. Medium to full-bodied, chalky and incisive, it's concentrated and tightly wound, with racy acids and a long, electric finish. Once again, this will merit a few years' bottle age given its structure and incipient complexity.

The Buisson brothers' 2018 Saint-Romain Sous la Velle has turned out brilliantly, wafting from the glass with notes of mandarin, crisp Anjou pear, freshly baked bread and green apple. Medium to full-bodied and satiny but incisive, it's deep and complete, with racy acids, fine concentration and a long, elegantly mineral finish. Tightly wound, this should blossom with a year or two in bottle. It's one of the finest wines I've ever tasted from Saint-Romain.

From one of the appellations prime terroirs, where the Buisson family owns a 2.5-hectare parcel, the 2017 Saint-Romain Sous la Velle wafts from the glass with notes of pear, white flowers, ripe lemons, yuzu and almond paste. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with good concentration, succulent acids and a delicately saline finish. With its old vines and soils somewhat richer in clay, this is frequently the Buissons' finest white Saint-Romain, and that appears to be the case in 2017.