The 2020 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité is a worthy follow-up to the stunning 2019. Wafting from the glass with aromas of lime zest, white flowers, crisp stone fruit, wet stones and youthful reduction, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, its satiny attack segueing into a layered, tightly wound mid-palate that's built around racy acids and chalky extract. Concluding with a long, resonant finish, this is one of the most exciting wines being produced in contemporary Burgundy.

Revisited in bottle, Lamy's 2019 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité has turned out even better than I predicted. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of orange oil, pear, freshly baked bread, beeswax, dried white flowers and stone fruit pits, this profound white Burgundy is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with prodigious reserves of concentration and chalky structuring extract, racy acids and a long, resonant finish. Seamless and complete, this is a monument in the making.

The 2016 Criots Batard Montrachet Haut Densite Grand Cru was cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare because of the late and short pruning that Lamy practiced on the vines. It has a wonderful bouquet with aniseed-tinged citrus fruit that just wraps itself around your senses. There is a labyrinthine-like quality to the nose, opening and shutting aromatic windows each time I returned to the glass. The palate is fresh and very confident on the entry, that aniseed theme continuing, great depth and sense of energy with a very long and spicy finish. This is one hell of a Criots in what was a challenging growing season.