The 1995 Chardonnay is barrel fermented, aged on its lees, and bottled early to preserve its freshness. Its delicious lemon cream, buttery apple, ripe fruit character is admirable. The wine's crisp acidity, freshness, and liveliness make it a noteworthy selection. It must be drunk over the next year. I have written about Domaine de la Colombette in the past, and I am pleased to note that the current releases confirm this estate's high quality. The reasonable prices should not be ignored, particularly by readers looking for a fine value.Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 374-9415; fax (212) 925-6474

The 1992 Chardonnay Vin de Pays-Coteaux du Libron exhibits a creamy, ripe apple/pear-like nose with vague popcorn notes, admirable richness, a chunky, husky personality, and a soft finish. Drink it before the end of 1995. Looking for outstanding wine bargains? This excellent 48-acre estate near the city of Bezier in the Languedoc-Roussillon region is turning out terrific wines at bargain-basement prices.Importer: a Daniel Johnnes Selection, Jeroboam Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 374-9415.

If you love oaky, toasty Chardonnays, this is for you. Appealing toasty coconut, a hint of orange and lemon, ending with a smooth and round finish. Great value. -

As so many tasting notes in this issue indicate, 1991 was an exceptional vintage in France's southern Languedoc-Roussillon region. Unlike most of northern France, this region had no problems with the rain that plagued many of France's vignerons. The 1991 Chardonnay reveals surprising power and richness, a big, flowery, apple butter-like nose, rich, solid flavors, and a gutsy, lusty finish. It should make delicious drinking for at least another year. Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA and Blanchon Cellars, Ft. Washington, PA.