The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières, which was blended with 70% whole-bunch fruit, has a rip-roaring bouquet with mineral-infused black fruit, crushed rose petals and hints of dried quince. I love the energy and generosity of this Morey-Saint-Denis. The palate is medium-bodied with fine but firm tannin, with blackberry and traces of tobacco. It exhibits firm grip in the mouth and delivers impressive weight and density on the finish. It will require three or four years to open up but it will be worth the wait.

The 2013 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Faconnières comes from 70-year-old vines and includes 50% whole-cluster fruit. It has a more understated bouquet compared to Virgile’s other ‘13s from the appellation, but don’t be fooled: this has superb delineation and focus, real mineralité underneath those broody black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin – an overarching structure here with a dash of black pepper judiciously sprinkled over the dense, fresh and vibrant finish. This is a superb example from the appellation and one of the domaine’s finest contributions to the vintage.

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru La Faconnieres from Virgile Lignier has an intense and vigorous bouquet with mulberry, blackberry and undergrowth aromas that are detailed and quite captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, grippy tannin. This is a masculine Morey-Saint-Denis, bold and forthright with a spicy, structured finish, a premier cru that needs at least five years in bottle to soften, yet the potential is all here.