The 2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, which is 50% whole bunch, has a light blackberry and briary-scented bouquet. The palate is sharp on the entry, slightly bitter with a supple, rounded finish.

The 2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir comes from Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle. It has a slightly rustic bouquet with brambly red fruit and earthy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannin but clean, tart red cherry fruit and a pretty, strawberry-tinged finish.

The 2014 Bourgogne Rouge includes 30% each of whole cluster and new oak. That stemminess does come through on the nose that has a faint pine note tincturing the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, easy drinking with soft tannin and tart cherry fruit, tinged with cassis on the finish. Due to be bottled early December.

The 2013 Bourgogne, which comes from five different plots in Chambolle and Morey, includes 30% whole cluster and 20% new oak, and has a nicely controlled blackberry and raspberry-scented bouquet with a touch of potpourri. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp raspberry and cranberry fruit with a pleasant, edgy, saline finish. Couldn’t ask for more at this level.

The 2012 Bourgogne Rouge, which comes from several parcels in the northern appellations and includes 30% whole cluster and 30% new oak, has quite a rich, dense bouquet that shows considerable wood at the moment. The palate is soft and rounded, very plush with a very soft landing on the finish. This will be approachable – top quality quaffing fare. My second visit to see Virgile Lignier, cousin of Laurent Lignier at Domaine Hubert Lignier, did not go to plan. With the winery seemingly empty, I wondered whether he had forgotten our rendezvous. I soon discovered that the original domaine is tucked away within the village of Morey Saint Denis, and that like many, expansion has meant that they had to move elsewhere to make their wines. Virgile finally appeared driving a forklift truck loading wines destined for my homeland (incidentally I wonder how many Bordeaux proprietors have such a license?) Still, we eventually sat down to taste his 2012s that had been racked mid-September and were now in tank. I have to admit, having heard so many bon mots about Lignier-Michelot, the 2011s had not swept me off my feet back last July, though I could see the potential. However, the 2012s are a different matter and showed more complexity and nuance. The harvest here commenced a little later than others on 27 September, though not as tardy as Laurent Ponsot up the road.