The 2000 Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim exhibits sweetened herbal tea aromas. Fresh and pure, this wine is also rich, deep, and ample. Its broad, mouth-coating flavor profile exhibits pears, apples, minerals, stones, and red berries (a sign of great ripeness in some white varietals). It has exceptional concentration, depth, and a long, drawn out finish. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2016+. According to Deiss, "2000 was a vintage of great weather, yet one that carries with it problems of balance, like all great vintages. Some will consider these wines as too rich and having too much alcohol or residual sugar." He added that "2001 presented us with climatic chaos but the end result is as great as 2000." Deiss, a bio-dynamic farmer, stressed that he never chaptalizes his wines, including the reds.Importer: New Castle Imports, Inc., Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 448-9463

Hints of gold can be discerned in the color of the 1998 Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim. Yellow and white fruits, raisins and nutmeg are found in its aromatic profile. Medium to full-bodied, it displays jammy apricot and peach flavors, intermingled with verbena, cloves, and sweet yellow plums. This well-focused, satin-textured wine possesses a long, warm (alcoholic) fnish. Drink it over the next 8-9 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.

Profound mineral-dominated aromatics are found in the 1996 Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim. This gorgeously silky-textured, medium-bodied, and deeply-concentrated wine has outstanding richness and ripeness. Candied lemons awash in spicy cream can be discerned in its opulent yet structured core as well as in its long finish. Drink this beauty over the next decadeImporter: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.