The 2011 St Romain offers everything you could really want from a Saint Romain. The bouquet is generous with copious citrus fruit, kiwi, cold stone and fresh lime aromas that are very well defined. The palate is beautifully balanced with satisfying weight in the mouth. It is harmonious and poised, a Saint-Romain with tremendous breeding and class. This is highly recommended.

The 2009 St. Romain comes across as a bit more reserved than the Bourgogne. White stone fruits, pears and flowers are some of the notes that take shape in this clean, engaging Burgundy. I especially like the tension and crispness of the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I found myself most attracted to the entry-level wines at Matrot. A number of the basic offerings are absolutely joyous, but the more important wines aren’t markedly more complex in my view. Only the villages-level Meursault is disappointing. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802