The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière mingles aromas of orange rind and pear with hints of fresh bread, buttered pastry, toasted nuts and dried white flowers in an inviting bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, bright and ample, with fine depth at the core, lively acids and a chalky finish, it's a fine success.

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière is showing especially well, mingling aromas of pear, orange oil, white flowers and toasted bread with hints of smoke and beeswax. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with terrific cut and chalky structuring extract, it's long and penetrating.

One wine that's indubitably built for the cellar is Niellon's emblematic 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière. Opening in the glass with scents of crisp orchard fruit, Meyer lemon, wheat toast and a subtle touch of reduction, it's medium to full-bodied, textural and incisive, with fine depth at the core, lively acids, and a long, precise finish.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière was marked by a light touch of reduction, with leesy top notes of nutmeg and bread dough mingling with its bouquet of orchard fruit, confit lemon and toasted nuts. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and expansive, with the broadest shoulders and the most mid-palate amplitude of any premier cru in the range, balanced by juicy acids and concluding with a taut finish that I suspect is slightly shorted by the wine's youthful reduction. Experience suggests that the only missing ingredient is a couple years of bottle age.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Niellon's 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière shows a touch of reduction on the nose, then it begins to open with frangipane, melted wax and bruised apple scents. Maybe just a bit underripe? The palate is strict and terse on the entry. The malic element of this Chassagne is more pronounced, plenty of green apples on display here with a Puligny-like austerity on the finish.