Rossignol's terrific 2019 Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots wafts from the glass with aromas of plums, dark berry fruit, exotic spices, peonies, blood orange and raw cocoa. Medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, it's deep and multidimensional, with a concentrated core of fruit, beautifully refined tannins and a long, lively finish. As is often the case, this old-vine cuvée is the highlight of the portfolio, and it will be worth a special effort to track down.

Always one of Rossignol's best bottlings, the 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots unfurls in the glass with a complex bouquet of orange rind, cherries, cassis, dried flowers, rose petals and spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with lovely depth and dimension at the core, framed by fine-grained tannins. There's less fleshy fruit that in the stunning 2016 and 2015 renditions, but this has everything it needs to develop beautifully in bottle.

The 2016 Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots is a blend two vineyards, one 45 years old and the other 110 years old (the source of massale selection from 2017), which Nicolas describes as his grand cru. Living up to that claim, it sports a deliriously elegant bouquet with detailed blackcurrant, boysenberry and briary scents infused with minerals. The palate is very silky on the entry, the acidity well judged and with superb density without detracting from precision and poised. It leaves a chalky residue in the mouth and a sappiness that leaves you wanting more. This is an outstanding wine from Nicolas Rossignol.

The 2015 Pommard 1er Cru Epenots includes a "touch of stems" according to Nicolas Rossignol. I appreciate the delineation on the nose with blackberry, wild strawberry and subtle undergrowth and woodland scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a candied opening, touches of marmalade and quince piercing the black fruit. There is good depth here, though the new oak (around one-third) will need a couple of years to fully assimilate.

The 2014 Pommard 1er Cru Epenots has great volume and panache on the nose, extremely pure and refined with subtle woodland and cold stone notes permeating that black cherry and boysenberry fruit. With time, there are attractive floral aromas, almost like a Volnay. The palate is fleshy on the entry and quite grippy in the mouth; it is surprisingly rich and again, Volnay in style, with great precision on the finish. This is another excellent Pommard from Nicolas Rossignol.