A gorgeous nose of mint, thyme, and gentian in Ostertag’s 2009 Riesling Heissenberg seems to take on distillate-like form on an expansive, glycerin-rich palate, powerfully backed yet not swamped by 15% alcohol. Ripe peach and the piquancy of peach kernel complete the picture of a strong-finishing Riesling that I would drink over the next 5-7 years lest its alcohol eventually catch up to it. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Carnation and ripe peach on the nose of Ostertag’s 2008 Riesling Heissenberg lead into a juicy yet plush palate, with nuances of herbs and flowers – though no mineral dimension – projected in a sustained finish. There is a lot to like, without enough about which to get genuinely excited, but I am sure one could follow this for at least 7-9 years and after the first few it might well exhibit more complexity. Yet, given its rather vintage-atypical come-hither personality, there is no need to wait to enjoy this. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524