Another outstanding cuvée is the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles, one of the most elegant wines in the range. Wafting from the glass with notes of peonies, orange rind, cassis, plums and loamy soil, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and perfumed, with refined tannins and a seamless, nicely balanced profile.

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles was showing a little reduction on the nose, although underneath I found some lovely ripe cranberry and mulberry fruit mixed with fine mineral notes. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, expressive and tensile with a crisp line of acidity. I appreciate the "flow" of this cuvée and it should age well. It equals some of Philippe Charlopin's grand crus - it's that good.

The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin les Evocelles, which sees 30% new oak, had some reduction on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, black toasty fruit and good acidity, though it needs to muster more elegance on the finish to merit a higher score.