Pierre-Yves Colin produced four barrels of his 2021 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly from fully 0.70 hectares, a derisory yield from vines that were ravished by the April frosts (I saw them myself several days after the fateful nights). Opening in the glass with notes of peach, white flowers and beeswax, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, with an ample mid-palate and a saline finish.

The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly has turned out beautifully in bottle, wafting from the glass with scents of pear, citrus oil, clear honey, white flowers and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, it's pure and lively, with bright acids and a long, saline finish.

From three parcels, Pierre-Yves Colin's 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly marries aromas of orange oil and fresh pear with hints of struck match, white flowers and warm bread. Medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's the most voluminous of his Saint-Aubins, with racy acids and chalky extract underpinning its ample core of fruit. Concluding with a saline finish, this, too, is promising.

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly unwinds in the glass with aromas of pear, orange oil, white flowers, beeswax and fresh mint. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's lively and layered, with lovely mid-palate amplitude, tangy acids and a precise finish.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is quite giving this year, bursting with expressive aromas of pear, pastry cream, green apple, fresh peach and wheat toast. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with an easygoing, open-knit profile that makes it quite an accessible, precocious rendition of this site.