Offering up aromas of crisp Anjou pear, lemon oil, toasted nuts, iodine and white flowers, the 2021 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with good tension, depth and persistence. It's another cuvée that shows very well this year.

The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière is very promising, wafting from the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, citrus zest, white toast, pastry cream and gunflint. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, its pretty core of fruit is girdled by bright acids and chalky structuring extract.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière unwinds in the glass with notes of pear, hazelnuts, freshly baked bread, dried white flowers and struck match. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and chiseled, it's deep and concentrated, with racy acids and a long, saline finish. This has turned out very well indeed and will reward some patience.

Tasted from bottle from my cellar, Pierre-Yves Colin's 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière is showing very well, opening in the glass with a youthful bouquet of crisp green apple, pear, white flowers and citrus oil that's still a little reserved. On the palate, however, the wine is more accessible: medium to full-bodied, with a glossy attack, succulent acids and chalky dry extract. It's a fleshy but precise Saint-Aubin that will clearly reward further bottle age.

The elegant 2016 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière is one of the highlights of Pierre-Yves Colin's Saint-Aubin range this year, exhibiting attractive aromas of crisp apple, mint, toasted nuts and struck match. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, glossy and concentrated, with nice mid-palate depth and dimension and a tangy, beautifully delineated finish.