The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is somewhat clipped and oak-inflected, and while it's inoffensive, it's hard to actively recommend.

The 2015 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu comes courtesy of 30-year-old vines and is matured for nine months, 90% in stainless steel and 10% in new oak. It has an open, generous bouquet with apple blossom, cold limestone and subtle smoky aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced, with a citric edge and spicy with hints of nutmeg and white pepper toward the finish that maintains satisfying length and focus. This is very well crafted, tensile and shows commendable terroir expression—a worthy follow-up to the 2014 Fourchaume.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, Pinson's 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu had a slight reduction on the nose and consequently did not quite convey its terroir as much as the Mont de Milieu from Samuel Billaud included within this flight. The palate is very sharp on the entry with bitter lemon notes almost puckering the mouth. It is certainly intense toward the finish with attractive tangerine and pink grapefruit notes lingering on the aftertaste. I found this improved in the glass, including the aromatics. One to watch.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Brouilland. The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu has a harmonious grapefruit and passion fruit-tinged bouquet, pretty if just missing a little vigor and that gunflint note. The palate is fresh on the entry with sour lemon and grapefruit notes, moderate depth but cutting away just a tad too quick on the finish compared to the previous bottle that I tasted last year. Tasted May 2016.