Salted red raspberries fill out a juicy, refreshing, seductively silken palate on the Vacheron 2008 Sancerre Rose, with hints of fresh lime and chalk that suggest its kinship with Sancerre Sauvignon. A sense of meat stock lends this depth and helps convince me that as fine as it is now, you could go on enjoying this for at least another year. Half of this is from flint-inflected soils, and half went through malo. Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique Vacheron’s sophisticated winery and ambitious plans (including commencing a program for re-propagating selection massale vines, and biodynamic certification, achieved in 2008) are the source for a great many fascinating Sancerres, and it’s clear to anyone who tastes through their cellar today and hears them discuss their wines that the best is yet to come. One of the trends I find fruitful here is the move toward larger barrels – including some foudres – and less new wood. Despite the advantages – all things considered – of 2008 over 2009 in Sancerre, the infant 2009s here display in some instances more finesse than their 2008 counterparts thanks in significant measure, I perceive, to refinements in elevage. The previous generations at Vacheron were appellation leaders in promoting Pinot Noir (a grape that has in fact been planted around Sancerre since before the phylloxera; and before Sauvignon) in top-notch rather than expendable sites, so that Pinot now makes up just over 25% of the domaine’s acreage. The younger Vacherons have eagerly followed that lead, although I must say I find their style of vinification in some recent vintages over-eager, with a degree of extraction and woodiness that the fruit seems inherently challenged to handle and the mineral character associated with Sancerre too austere to compliment. Whether American consumers will consider good enough value reds whose European reputation already assures them a high rate of return must simply sort itself out in the marketplace. Most of the Vacheron wines, incidentally – especially their reds – are released very late by local standards.A Jon-David Headrick Selection (various importers), Asheville, NC; tel. (828) 252 8245; also, a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Sancerre Rose is a fashionable wine in Paris bistros, but most Americans do not understand how flavorful and versatile a dry rose can be, particularly with food. The crisp, strawberry and cherry-scented 1992 from Domaine Vacheron relies on intensity of flavor, not sugar for body. It is an understated, delicate, cerebral rose for drinking over the next several years. Although 1993 is a light vintage for the Loire Valley, Domaine Vacheron has produced two excellent wines. A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers. For availability information, Vezan's fax in Paris is 33.1.42.55.42.93.