Weinbach’s 2007 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Selection de Grains Nobles features peach and purple plum preserves tinged with the bitterness of their pits and with brown spices, while underlain by deep, marrow-rich meat stock. This is incredibly viscous and dense yet harbors only (!) 155 grams of residual sugar along with blazing acidity, so that it tastes only moderately sweet. “Moderate,” however, is the last word you would use to describe the vibratory, corpse-quickening intensity of the finish here, with its flood of grapefruit, glazed pineapple, and fresh pit fruit concentrate. I’ve never encountered a Pinot Gris I could more easily mistake for Riesling. This is sure to last 30-40 years, and when its almost raucous personality settles down it may well prove to be even more amazing than it is today. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage – especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand – and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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