Cotton candy and pipe smoke can be discerned in the aromatics of the 2000 Tokay-Pinot Gris Altenbourg Selection de Grains Nobles (160 grams of residual sugar per liter). A magnificent, medium to full-bodied beauty, it is thickly-textured, dense, and concentrated. Its tangerine, apricot, and peach-filled character has superb delineation. Projected maturity: 2005-2025+. According to Laurence Faller, this highly regarded estate's winemaker, "unquestionably 2000 must be considered one of the finest vintages of the last decade. It reminds me of 1998 but with more botrytis, yet not too much."Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802