This is a proprietary blend of grapes that may include Lemberger, Dornfelder, Cabernet, Merlot and Sangiovese. It surprises, with handsome and ripe loganberry and black cherry fruit offset by dark, tarry, smoky barrel flavors with a chocolatey undercurrent. There’s brisk acidity, but the fruit is ripe, clean and interesting, and proves that in the right hands red grapes can work in Germany’s warmer Pfalz region. ——P.G.(8/1/2001)—— 88