The striking thing about Dry River's 2017 Pinot Noir is its rose-blossom perfume, which seems to persist even on the palate and through the lengthy finish. Yes, there are barely-ripe cherries, a silky, medium-bodied feel on the palate and subtle hints of mocha and spice, but the overwhelming impression is one of floral elegance. While some vintages of this wine need time in the cellar, this is immediately approachable, yet it should drink well for up to decade.

While the 2016 Pinot Noir lacks the richness and depth of the powerful 2015, it's more approachable and charming, with black cherries and raspberries leading the way. It's medium-bodied and silky in texture, with herbal notes and some gentle tea-like tannins, but layered and long on the intricately detailed finish.

The 2015 Pinot Noir comes from a year that saw reduced crop yields and a dry summer. The result is a concentrated, tannic, age-worthy wine that was aged in 20%-25% new French oak hogsheads. It's medium to full-bodied and velvety in texture, with black cherry notes that come dangerously close to being chocolaty, but it retains a sense of freshness on the long, rich finish.

If pulling the cork on the 2014 Pinot Noir soon, be sure to decant it a bit in advance of serving to allow some tarry aromas to dissipate. Once past those, pretty black cherry, raspberry and spice notes emerge, along with a simply gorgeous, plump, silky texture. It's expansive in the mouth without being weighty, while those tannins gain strength on the finish, suggesting at least a decade more of aging potential.

Medium ruby-purple in color, the 2011 Pinot Noir presents red currant and red cherry notes with some nutmeg, cinnamon and hints of pepper. Light to medium-bodied, it is a very elegant style with a low level of fine-grained tannins, balanced acid and a long finish. Drink it now to 2019+. Neil McCallum was one of the Martinborough wine pioneers, planting some of the first vineyards in Martinborough at Dry River in 1978 and remaining with this winery until his departure in 2011. For Dry River, the biggest gains in recent years have come from McCallum’s refining their vineyard techniques. In fact, very few changes have happened in the winery over the years (well, except for the cross-flow filter, of course). It’s a curious vineyard to look at – I don’t think I have ever seen Pinot vines so big! Burgundian examples look like bonsais next to these Pinot trees splayed out on a Scott Henry trellis. Still, the ultimate proof is in the taste, and in terms of quality Dry River Pinots are right up there. I truly hope that the new team can look to one day wean themselves off that cross-flow filter though, at least for the Pinot. Imported by RO Imports LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 916-3320; fax (212) 916-3306