Fun and fruit-driven, with just enough peppery complexity to keep it interesting for multiple sips, the 2020 Crozes Hermitage features chunky blueberry fruit, ripe tannins and a mouthwatering finish.

The only one of the 2019 reds to have been bottled at the time of my visit, the 2019 Crozes Hermitage is a super effort, and it should represent a terrific value (the 2018 sells for about $30). Hints of violets accent blueberries and cassis on the nose in this full-bodied, concentrated offering. Rich, velvety and a bit tannic, it's an impressive négoce bottling.

Loaded with upfront blueberries and cherries, the 2018 Crozes Hermitage is medium to full-bodied, pleasantly plump and generous in the mouth. It's ripe and silky, with a soft wash of dusty tannins on the finish. Your perfect hamburger wine for the next few years?

Boasting scents of cracked pepper, black olives, road tar and blackberries, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage is a notable effort and a solid value. It's medium-bodied, yet on the sturdy side, with muscular tannins tamed by the firm's traditional, lengthy élevage. Finishing long, with hints of charred meat and licorice, this should drink well for 6-7 years, perhaps longer.