The 2009 Pinot Noir Occidental is gorgeous. Sweet, silky tannins frame an expressive core of fruit in this refined, subtle wine. The finish is refined and haunting. Shatter was a big issue here in 2009 and lowered yields significantly, but the positive side of that is that the wine has more than enough stuffing to handle its 100% new French oak with grace. This is a striking wine from Evening Land. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. This is an impressive set of wines from Evening Land Vineyards and winemaker Sashi Moorman. Evening Land owns vineyards in Oregon and Sonoma. The 2009s are the first vintage for the estate’s vineyards in the Central Coast. Moorman describes the microclimates of these recently planted Central Coast sites on the far western edge of the Santa Rita hills appellation as marginal, cold-climate and ideally suited for high-quality Pinot Noir.Tel. (707) 320-9372; www.eveninglandvineyards.com

Tough to appreciate now due to its acidity and tannins, which lock it down behind a cloak of impenetrability. There are exotic wild raspberry and cherry fruit, cola, licorice, Provencal herb, bacon and pepper flavors, but you can’t quite get to them, because they’re behind bars. Obviously needs time. Give it 3–5 years in the cellar, and it should begin to blossom after that.——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 92

This blend of different vineyards is immediately appealing for its silky mouthfeel and delicious flavors. Floods the mouth with raspberries, cherries, red currants, licorice, bacon, dusty herb and sandalwood flavors. So pretty, so polished, so refined. Will develop over the next two–four years. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 91