A typical Russian River Pinot, the 2011 Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch is juicy, generous and expressive. Dark red fruit, sweet spices and cola all jump from the glass. The Keefer is arguably the most exuberant of these 2011 Pinots from Failla. Accordingly, it will drink well pretty much upon release and for at least a handful of years beyond. I don’t see a whole lot of pedigree for aging here, but the wine’s near-term appeal is undeniable. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. Ehren Jordan is one of those people who are maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can’t imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets.Tel. (707) 963-0530

More structure and tannin can be found in the dark plum/ruby-colored 2009 Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch. Notes of sassafras and kirsch as well as sweet tannins emerge from this generous, plump 2009. This is the well-run wine operation of long-time veteran winemaker, sidekick and assistant winemaker at Turley Cellars in Calistoga, Ehren Jordan, who produces cool climate reds and whites that have benefitted from the cooler than normal year of 2009. These are minimally oaked efforts and, given Jordan’s love of France, readers should not be surprised to find that they possess Francophile-like personalities. However, the rich, pure, ripe fruit of California has not been compromised. Failla’s Pinot Noir program is growing by leaps and bounds and currently eight separate Pinots are offered. Jordan intends to keep the new oak to 33% or less and, if possible, prefers to use 100% whole clusters (meaning 100% stems) and bottle early to preserve the freshness and character of Pinot Noir. These wines were all tasted post-bottling, which may have suppressed their aromatics somewhat, so I suspect my scores are on the conservative side as much of the charm and appeal of Pinot Noir is its endearing aromatics. Readers looking for a Northern Rhone look-alike should check out Failla’s two Syrahs.Tel. (707) 963-0530; Fax (707) 963-0570

An outstanding effort is the 2006 Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch. A nose of sweet currants, cherries, and fresh tobacco is followed by a medium-bodied wine with a light ruby color, an elegant personality, and a fresh finish. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (707) 942-4699; Fax (707) 942-5142