More intense, richer and broader with notions of lard, smoke, roasted herbs, black currants and cassis, the bigger 2009 Syrah Estate is more similar to a full-blooded Hermitage than a Crozes-Hermitage. Give it 1-2 years of cellaring and drink it over the following decade. This is the well-run wine operation of long-time veteran winemaker, sidekick and assistant winemaker at Turley Cellars in Calistoga, Ehren Jordan, who produces cool climate reds and whites that have benefitted from the cooler than normal year of 2009. These are minimally oaked efforts and, given Jordan’s love of France, readers should not be surprised to find that they possess Francophile-like personalities. However, the rich, pure, ripe fruit of California has not been compromised. Failla’s Pinot Noir program is growing by leaps and bounds and currently eight separate Pinots are offered. Jordan intends to keep the new oak to 33% or less and, if possible, prefers to use 100% whole clusters (meaning 100% stems) and bottle early to preserve the freshness and character of Pinot Noir. These wines were all tasted post-bottling, which may have suppressed their aromatics somewhat, so I suspect my scores are on the conservative side as much of the charm and appeal of Pinot Noir is its endearing aromatics. Readers looking for a Northern Rhone look-alike should check out Failla’s two Syrahs.Tel. (707) 963-0530; Fax (707) 963-0570

One-hundred percent whole clusters were used in the outstanding 2008 Syrah Estate. Very concentrated with abundant tannin, this cuvee is not yet ready for prime time drinking. It exhibits sweet blackberry, cassis, and cherry notes intermixed with hints of camphor, tar, tapenade, and damp earth. Give it another year of bottle age, and consume it over the following decade. It is another northern Rhone-like wine that represents a California blend of Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage.Ehren Jordan’s yields in 2008 were one-half of normal, primarily due to the frost and poor flowering. Consequently, the level of concentration in some of his wines is slightly higher than normal. Jordan is a Francophile, and his impressive resume includes being one of the masterminds behind the Turley Zinfandels. He is all about natural winemaking, securing top terroirs, and putting into the bottle the essence of what the grape and the site have produced.Tel. (707) 942-4699; Fax (707) 942-5142

Shows the purity and transparency associated with this fine vineyard, as well as crisp coastal acidity and finely etched tannins. Doesn’t possess the depth or concentration of previous vintages, especially 2007, with somewhat curtailed blackberry fruit and a short finish. But then, it was a difficult vintage. Very classy wine to drink now. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 90

More Crozes-Hermitage in style is the 2007 Syrah Estate. Abundant amounts of whole clusters are used, and the result is a wine offering notes of black olives, truffles, earth, black cherries, and black currants. With sweet fruit, very good acidity, beautiful density and length, and a long finish, this 2007 is a dead-ringer for a top-notch vintage of Jaboulet's Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Thalabert.Given proprietor Ehren Jordan's experience working in France, it is not surprising that his wines possess French-like acid profiles as well as an unmistakable minerality. Jordan continues to fashion some brilliant white wines, including purchased fruit from John Alban's vineyard in Edna Valley. There are six Pinot Noir cuvees produced at Failla, with the total production now reaching 4,000 cases. Ehren Jordan's undeniable strength is demonstrated by his touch with Syrah.Tel. (707) 942-4699; Fax (707) 942-5142