The 2018 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard has a medium ruby-purple color and opens with some sulfury, tarry tones on the nose that obscure the fruit. The palate hints at juicy berry fruits, with a firm, grippy frame and finish. 600 cases produced.

The cool climate 2012 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard is a blend of equal parts Pommard and Mt. Eden clones. It reveals a more rustic style with higher tannins, good acidity and a burly, medium-bodied, spicy style with good berry fruit as well as texture. Although still rough around the edges, it should soften with bottle age and drink well for 7-8 years. This is the personal project of Ehren Jordan, who was the long-time apprentice at Turley Cellars. These are all elegant, cool climate, finesse-styled wines that were obviously influenced by European rather than New World models. Jordan owns estate vineyards in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA and purchased fruit from some of the top growers in that region. Tel. (707) 963-0530

From one of the great sites in California, the 2011 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard is impeccably nuanced and layered from start to finish. Black cherries, menthol, licorice and sweet spices all flesh out in a textured Pinot that impresses for its transparency. This is a great Hirsch Pinot in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Ehren Jordan is one of those people who are maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can’t imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets. Tel. (707) 963-0530

One of the best wines in this range, the 2010 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard is fabulous. Today, the 2010 is showing just the barest hint of its ultimate potential. Behind the tannins and acidity lies a serious core of fruit just waiting to emerge. The 2010 Hirsch is distinguished for its deep layers of fruit and fabulous purity. Readers will have to be patient, though, as the 2010 is currently very closed in on itself. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Ehren Jordan is one of those people who are maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can’t imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets. Tel. (707) 963-0530

Fragrant wild strawberry, pomegranate and mulberry scents soar from the glass of the perfumed, medium to full-bodied, silky smooth 2009 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard. Enjoy this round, seductive Pinot over the next 5-7 years. This is the well-run wine operation of long-time veteran winemaker, sidekick and assistant winemaker at Turley Cellars in Calistoga, Ehren Jordan, who produces cool climate reds and whites that have benefitted from the cooler than normal year of 2009. These are minimally oaked efforts and, given Jordan’s love of France, readers should not be surprised to find that they possess Francophile-like personalities. However, the rich, pure, ripe fruit of California has not been compromised. Failla’s Pinot Noir program is growing by leaps and bounds and currently eight separate Pinots are offered. Jordan intends to keep the new oak to 33% or less and, if possible, prefers to use 100% whole clusters (meaning 100% stems) and bottle early to preserve the freshness and character of Pinot Noir. These wines were all tasted post-bottling, which may have suppressed their aromatics somewhat, so I suspect my scores are on the conservative side as much of the charm and appeal of Pinot Noir is its endearing aromatics. Readers looking for a Northern Rhone look-alike should check out Failla’s two Syrahs. Tel. (707) 963-0530; Fax (707) 963-0570