The 2011 Viognier Alban Vineyard is stunningly beautiful. Sweet white floral notes, jasmine and white peaches all flow from an utterly impeccable, gracious wine that impresses for its overall balance. John Alban doesn’t sell too much fruit to outside wineries anymore, so it is a real treat to taste another rendition from his estate in Edna Valley. In 2011, the Failla Viognier is a stunner. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Ehren Jordan is one of those people who are maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can’t imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets.Tel. (707) 963-0530

Jordan has also turned in an impressive performance with the 2009 Viognier from the Alban Vineyard. Surprisingly elegant with more freshness than minerality than one normally sees from this varietal in California, this medium-bodied effort displays lots of apricot, honeyed peach, floral and damp earth notes. Enjoy it over the next several years.This is the well-run wine operation of long-time veteran winemaker, sidekick and assistant winemaker at Turley Cellars in Calistoga, Ehren Jordan, who produces cool climate reds and whites that have benefitted from the cooler than normal year of 2009. These are minimally oaked efforts and, given Jordan’s love of France, readers should not be surprised to find that they possess Francophile-like personalities. However, the rich, pure, ripe fruit of California has not been compromised. Failla’s Pinot Noir program is growing by leaps and bounds and currently eight separate Pinots are offered. Jordan intends to keep the new oak to 33% or less and, if possible, prefers to use 100% whole clusters (meaning 100% stems) and bottle early to preserve the freshness and character of Pinot Noir. These wines were all tasted post-bottling, which may have suppressed their aromatics somewhat, so I suspect my scores are on the conservative side as much of the charm and appeal of Pinot Noir is its endearing aromatics. Readers looking for a Northern Rhone look-alike should check out Failla’s two Syrahs.Tel. (707) 963-0530; Fax (707) 963-0570

Ehren Jordan once again dips into this cult vineyard for his Central Coast Viognier, with spectacular results. The grape pedigree is evident in the intense ripeness, suggesting tropical fruits, green apples and pears, and the acidity, which is brisk and clean. A brilliant evocation of Viognier to drink now.——S.H.(7/1/2011)—— 94

From the Alban Vineyard in Edna Valley, the monolithic 2008 Viognier Alban Vineyard was not singing as sweetly as it has in previous vintages. It is a big, chunky, subdued white that, while very good, is not in the same league as the brilliant 2007. Ehren Jordan’s yields in 2008 were one-half of normal, primarily due to the frost and poor flowering. Consequently, the level of concentration in some of his wines is slightly higher than normal. Jordan is a Francophile, and his impressive resume includes being one of the masterminds behind the Turley Zinfandels. He is all about natural winemaking, securing top terroirs, and putting into the bottle the essence of what the grape and the site have produced.Tel. (707) 942-4699; Fax (707) 942-5142