Jordan has also turned in an impressive performance with the 2009 Viognier from the Alban Vineyard. Surprisingly elegant with more freshness than minerality than one normally sees from this varietal in California, this medium-bodied effort displays lots of apricot, honeyed peach, floral and damp earth notes. Enjoy it over the next several years.This is the well-run wine operation of long-time veteran winemaker, sidekick and assistant winemaker at Turley Cellars in Calistoga, Ehren Jordan, who produces cool climate reds and whites that have benefitted from the cooler than normal year of 2009. These are minimally oaked efforts and, given Jordan’s love of France, readers should not be surprised to find that they possess Francophile-like personalities. However, the rich, pure, ripe fruit of California has not been compromised. Failla’s Pinot Noir program is growing by leaps and bounds and currently eight separate Pinots are offered. Jordan intends to keep the new oak to 33% or less and, if possible, prefers to use 100% whole clusters (meaning 100% stems) and bottle early to preserve the freshness and character of Pinot Noir. These wines were all tasted post-bottling, which may have suppressed their aromatics somewhat, so I suspect my scores are on the conservative side as much of the charm and appeal of Pinot Noir is its endearing aromatics. Readers looking for a Northern Rhone look-alike should check out Failla’s two Syrahs.Tel. (707) 963-0530; Fax (707) 963-0570

Ehren Jordan once again dips into this cult vineyard for his Central Coast Viognier, with spectacular results. The grape pedigree is evident in the intense ripeness, suggesting tropical fruits, green apples and pears, and the acidity, which is brisk and clean. A brilliant evocation of Viognier to drink now.——S.H.(7/1/2011)—— 94