The 2006 Viognier Alban Vineyard shows lychee, orange marmalade, and quince notes, good acidity, some spice, but seems chunky compared to the more delineated and stylish Chardonnays. Drink it over the next year. Tel. (707) 942-4699; Fax (707) 942-5142

Shows a control and nobility that’s rare in California Viogniers, and you have to attribute that to the vineyard, as well as Ehren Jordan’s winemaking skill. Dry and deftly oaked, the wine has a brilliant balance of acidity and fruit, with creamy flavors of peaches, grilled pineapples, honeysuckle flowers and vanilla-cinnamon. Just stunning in its intensity, one of the finest Viogniers in the state.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 94