The more traditional 2012 Gran Reserva comes from one of the driest years on record. It's mostly Tempranillo with some 3% Graciano matured in American oak barrels, 25% of them new, for 26 months, despite which, the wine is not excessively oaky. They wanted to keep the traditional profile but adjusted the toast on the barrels to adjust the excessive vanilla and coconut. This is structured, powerful, ripe without excess, spicy and balsamic, developing the bouquet, still young and with very good balance. It should be long lived. 10,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2015.

The Gran Reserva ages for longer before it's released, and the current vintage is the 2009 Gran Reserva, which contains 2% Graciano but is mostly Tempranillo. It matured in American oak barrels for 26 months. The 2009 is a warm and ripe vintage and has more black fruit than red and is very spicy, with notes of licorice. It feels a little reductive but benefits from time in the glass, where it develops more and more notes of aromatic herbs and its balsamic side of cigar ash and incense. It's medium to full-bodied with tannins that are mostly resolved, polished and soft, with moderate acidity. A clean, classical Gran Reserva at a very good price. 10,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2012.

The 2008 Gran Reserva has been in bottle since 2011, so it's quite polished and developed. It's mostly Tempranillo with a 2% pinch of Graciano from vines over 30 years old in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, fermented at controlled temperatures and matured in American oak barrels for 26 months. It was a cold and wet vintage, and at this stage in its development, the wine shows very strong smoky aromas, toast and charred oak. At almost age ten, the fruit is fading into the background and there is more aromatic complexity. The palate shows very good freshness, with some acidity still noticeable from the vintage conditions and also from their use of higher-altitude vineyards for this bottling. 10,000 bottles produced.

No such problems exist for the 2005 Gran Reserva from an outstanding Rioja vintage. It was aged for 24 months in 25% new French and American oak and bottled without filtration. Aromas of sandalwood, Asian spices, incense, violets, mineral, and assorted black fruits lead to a masculine, burly wine with outstanding volume, concentration, and densely packed, layered fruit. This powerful offering will benefit from another 5-6 years of cellaring and drink well through 2025, if not longer. Importer:Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; Tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2004 Gran Reserva was aged for 24 months in 25% new French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it delivers a nose of roasted herbs, mineral, wood smoke, lavender, and black cherry. Ripe on the palate with plenty of savory fruit, it has good grip, considerable depth, and a lengthy, firm finish. It will benefit from 2-3 years of additional bottle age and drink well from 2012 to 2024. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767