The 2001 Poggio Golo, the house Merlot, does well in the soils with a higher percentage of clay. Ruby/black in color, it offers decadently sweet aromas of plum and black cherry jam, melted tar, chocolate, and rosemary. Soft, but packed on the palate, silky, sensual, and sumptuous, its super ripeness is held in check by tasty mineral notes and a balancing acidity. Already drinking well, it will last another dozen years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Closed and structured, but incredibly powerful, dense, and promising is the 2000 Poggio Golo, a 100% Merlot aged in French oak. Its inky/black/ruby color is followed by a sweet nose of licorice, wood smoke, blackberries, and cherries. This heady, dense, tightly-structured Merlot behaves more like a Cabernet Sauvignon than a Merlot. Nevertheless, it's loaded, stacked, and packed with great ripeness, richness, and tremendous upside. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2015. Based on recent efforts, Fattoria del Cerro looks to be one of Tuscany's up and coming stars. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Flashy/flamboyant is the opaque purple-colored 1998 Poggio Golo Merlot. This dense, chewy, voluptuously-textured 100% Merlot is huge in the mouth, exhibiting gobs of chocolate/mocha-infused jammy black cherry fruit, a boatload of glycerin, low acidity, and sweet tannin. Thick and fleshy, it will have enormous appeal if drunk over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200