Readers will find an attractive, hearty red in the 2010 Rosso Conero. Dark wild cherries, underbrush, tar and smoke flow from this brooding, masculine wine. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Importers: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880

The 2007 Rosso Conero (Montepulciano) is made in a super-ripe, dense style. Although the wine possesses impressive depth, some rustic elements remain, and this bottling lacks some of the sheer appeal of the better balanced Rosso Piceno. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880