The 2010 Conero Riserva Passo del Lupo shows wild and slightly rustic tones of wild berry, grilled herb, licorice and green olive. The wine is both generous and reflective of its territorial origins. That wild side and those slightly green aromas recall the beautiful rolling hills of the Marche on Italy's Adriatic flank.

There’s a meaty or slightly burned quality here with ripe notes of black fruit plus exotic spice, smoke and coals. A black mineral element or graphite note is also very prominent and the wine tastes, big, firm, chewy and sophisticated.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 88