The 2009 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard emerges from the glass with layers of bright, floral red fruit. Sweet spices, licorice, flowers and raspberries follow, adding lift and brightness on the finish. This needs time to absorb its 80% new oak barrels, but it is a class act all the way. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. This line up from Fess Parker is impressive. A number of the higher-end wines are delicious, but I was most struck by the quality of several of the estate’s entry-level offerings. These are some of the very finest values in California.Tel. (800) 841-1104; www.fessparker.com

A beautiful Pinot Noir, dry, rich and voluptuous. It’s delicious, with a round mellow feeling, but good tannins give it a firm edge. The ripe flavors suggest cherries, Dr. Pepper cola and sandalwood. ——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 92