The Feudo Disisa 2013 Monreale Nero d'Avola Vuarìa goes a bit over the top in terms of intensity and extract. Generally speaking, it feels overdone. The wine is aged, with those sticky aged notes of dried fruit, teriyaki, mesquite smoke and campfire ash. There is a bitterness on the close. This is not really my cup of tea (or glass of Nero d'Avola).

The Feudo Disisa 2012 Monreale Nero d'Avola Vuarìa is soft, plush and intense. Only 5,000 bottles are made. Nero d'Avola can sometimes show rough edges, but this oak-aged expression is creamy and silky instead. The quality of fruit is vibrant and deep. The bouquet delivers spice, licorice and earthy aromas that give the wine more weight and persistence.

From a little-known appellation just outside of Palermo, the 2011 Monreale Nero d'Avola Vuarìa opens to very likable aromas of red berry, dried cherry and spice. The wine is aged in barrique for 14 moths. This wine does not show the overt aroma of caper and green olive that are characteristic of this indigenous Sicilian grape. Instead, the wine offers a softer and rounder approach with good textural heft. You do get a tiny touch of pungent dill at the back.

A plump, modern expression of Nero d’Avola with evident oak tones of chocolate, spice, toasted almond and a darkly concentrated appearance. Some bright red fruit and wild berry peeks through and offers a touch of much-needed freshness in the mouth. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 88