Blessed with some of the most beautiful vineyards in an isolated spot in central Sicily (Contea di Sclafani), vintner Fabio Sireci’s full attention goes to the quality of his fruit. This top-shelf expression of Nero d’Avola offers bright red fruit and softly toasted almond. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 91

The 2007 Nero d'Avola Vrucara is one of the more unusual Nero d'Avolas readers will come across. A blast of super-ripe red fruit hits the palate with authority as the Vrucara struts its stuff. This is a decidedly opulent, flashy Nero d'Avola that sits on the razor's edge of ripeness. Soft and supple on the palate, the wine flows effortlessly towards the caressing, intense finish. Floral notes add a touch of lift on the finish. The Vrucara, a single-vineyard old-vine selection from high-altitude hillside vineyards, shows the extreme of ripeness Nero d'Avola is capable of. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. I tasted a wide range of wines from Feudo Montoni this year. The standouts are the two Nero d'Avolas.Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202

Vrucara represents a new, exciting page in the story of Sicily’s most important indigenous grape, Nero d’Avola. The purity of the fruit comes through loud and clear, and the wine doesn’t deliver that bittersweet finish you sometimes get. Instead, it shows cherry, spice and an elegant mineral tone. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 91