The 2010 Goliardo Caino sees 12 months in French oak. It has a lifted, candied bouquet of red cherries and raspberry, with woody, wet tobacco notes emerging within a couple of minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, sour cherry, bergamot and bitter lemon. It needs a little more harmony towards the finish, although it displays commendable length. Fine. Drink now-2015. Bodegas Forjas del Salnes is one of the most revered producers in Rias Baixas. Located close to the Atlantic, Rodrigo Mendez tends vines located on granitic sand with some phylloxera- resistant vines well over one century old. He is renowned for his red wines, although to be truthful only the Goliardo Loureiro fulfilled my expectations. But Rodrigo’s two whites were terrific and this is where I will commence.Importer: Peninsula Wines (Patrick Mata and Alberto Orte) New Rochelle, NY; tel. (914) 740-4724 and Carte Blanche Wines (UK).

The 2007 Goliardo Caino is produced entirely from the indigenous grape of the same name. A thin skinned variety, it tends toward high acidity. Medium crimson-colored, it has a peppery, spicy nose leading to an elegant, tart wine which is right on the edge of taking raciness to an extreme. The Forja del Salnes wines are made in a small garage by Raul Perez.Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet; info@vinosandgourmet.com

The 2006 Goliardo Caino is a bit darker in color than the 2005 with a nose reminiscent of high quality red Burgundy. It offers a lovely perfume of cedar, mineral, cherry, and raspberry. This leads to an elegant, ripe, balanced, silky wine epitomizing finesse. It may well evolve for 1-2 years and should provide pleasure through 2016. Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 237-0077

The 2005 Goliardo Caino is dark ruby-colored with aromas of damp earth, mineral, mulberry, rhubarb, and blueberry. It has a cool-climate personality absent any green characteristics with modest depth and a smooth texture. This tasty, elegant wine is all about finesse. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 237-0077