Released unusually at the age of nearly five years, this Chardonnay is losing its primary fruit. It’s developing a toasted cashew and hazelnut character, and the pineapples are transmogrifying to chewy dried fruits and even Christmas fruitcake. Meanwhile the sweet, caramelized oak is fully integrated. Bravo to the winery for holding this back and letting us see what an older Sonoma Coast Chardonay does.——S.H.(8/1/2010)—— 91

At the age of four years, this Chardonnay is losing its primary fruit character and picking up rich, complex aged notes of glazed cashews, baked pineapple and dried peaches and apricots. It’s also very spicy. Really fascinates the palate, offering a different experience each second, and should continue to interest for several more years.——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 94