The 2008 Gagliole (Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon) is striking. Layers of dark plums and cherries are followed by tobacco, scorched earth, licorice and leather. The Gagliole presents terrific inner juiciness and fabulous length. The estate did not make its top Sangiovese, Pecchia, in 2008; all of the best fruit went into Gagliole. That appears to have been a very sound choice. I don-t expect the 2008 Gagliole to be terribly long-lived, but it is quite pretty right now. A final burst of fruit informs the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. These are two beautiful wines from proprietors Thomas and Monika Bar and consulting oenologist Stefano Chiocchioli. The Bars recently purchase six hectares of vineyards in the Conca d-Oro zone of Panzano, one of the very best microclimates in Tuscany, and a region that is quite different in character from Castellina, where Gagliole is located. It will be interesting to see what this dynamic estate comes up with next.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Here’s a rich, chocolaty Sangiovese (with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) from central Tuscany with cheerful notes of wild berries and cherries that make for a sophisticated but cheerful wine. It boasts good intensity and power and has enough body and natural crispness to match most meat dishes. ——M.L.(3/1/2010)—— 91

The 2006 Rosso (90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) is simply gorgeous in its compelling inner perfume of blackberry jam, violets, minerals and road tar. The wine reveals superb focus and energy, with outstanding balance and a long, harmonious finish. I also tasted the 2005 and 2004 and found both vintages holding up well, with the 2004 in particular showing lovely complexity and richness. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Gagliole is best known for its high-end reds, but this entry-level Chianti Classico is an excellent choice that won’t break the bank.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200