Here’s a Barolo that lives up to its “riserva” status thanks to aged aromas of old spice, leather, black mineral, root beer, tar and menthol-like intensity. There are some earthy, dusty tones on the finish and the wine imparts firm, ripe tannins in the mouth. Riservas are usually aged one more year than base Barolos. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 92