Just 170 cases were produced of the 2005 Tahi, a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Cabernet Franc matured entirely in new oak. A very dense, oak-laden, blackberry, tar-tinged nose that lacks some definition, leads to a more supple palate than I was anticipating with good acidity, better balanced than the previous vintage, but still with that tarry, almost stoic finish.Founded in 1992 by ex-financier Michael Daymond-King, Hatton Estate own 16 hectares of vine on Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay. Michael told me that he realized that it might be possible to produce a Chablis in this sub-region. The wines are produced in small quantities and are listed in prestigious restaurants such as Charlie Trotter and Gordon Ramsay. For various American importers, check the website at www.hattonestate.com

The 2004 Tahi is selected from the Reserve wine but with more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Much more opaque than the Reserve, it has notes of plum, blackberry and Christmas cake smothered with a lot of toasty new oak. The palate is full-bodied, dense and rich with again a lot of new oak. Backwards and heavy on the finish with a slight charcoal-quality coming through on the after-taste, I find this wine lacking the finesse and poise I expect from a top-quality wine, which is obviously its intention. Founded in 1992 by ex-financier Michael Daymond-King, Hatton Estate own 16 hectares of vine on Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay. Michael told me that he realized that it might be possible to produce a Chablis in this sub-region. The wines are produced in small quantities and are listed in prestigious restaurants such as Charlie Trotter and Gordon Ramsay. For various American importers, check the website at www.hattonestate.com