The 2006 Ried Vogelsang – a blend of Pinot Blanc, Furmint, Welschriesling, and Muskateller – exudes ripe peach and pineapple with spicy, musky, animal, and almost sweaty notes. Its oily richness of texture and ripeness of fruit are enhanced by a perfectly-judged hint of sweetness, yet in finishing this turns unexpectedly refreshing and practically delicate, bitter fruit pit and saline notes adding interest and extending its length. The more you return to the glass, the more fascinating this wine becomes, and I am sure one will be able to say the same about repeated visits over the next several years. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2005 Ried Vogelsang – from around 25% each Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Muskateller – displays apricot and herb, sweet corn, fresh lime, hints of tropical fruit, nut oils ... in short (or rather, long) you can pull apart the contributions of each grape variety to the blend, but they all work (or is that “play”?) well together. Time in barrel has given this a creamy texture and introduced a certain underlying firmness, but this also possesses elegance and lift, with acidity that keeps it tasting dry even though it is technically “halbtrocken.” The finish features subtle zestiness of orange and grapefruit, deep lees and nut oil richness, and a kiss of tropical fruits. And if this behaves like the 2004, it will taste even more interesting and delicious a year from now. Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2001 Vogelsang (which means "bird song"), a blend of Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muskateller (all the grapes were harvested and vinified together), has a demure nose. On the palate it is zesty, lemony and light-bodied. Pink grapefruit can be discerned in its racy finish. Drink it over the next 12 months. The score attributed to this wine may appear conservative, especially by those who crave high acid wines. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Martin Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300