Aromas of citrus zest, crisp yellow orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, beeswax, white flowers and toasted nuts introduce the 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière, a medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated wine that's seamless and structured, concluding with a long, mineral finish. This cuvée is a particular success this year.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière opens in the glass with scents of pear, gunflint, musk melon, wheat toast, wet stones and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, ample but controlled, its concentrated core of fruit is underpinned by lively acids and elegantly chalky structure.

Bursting with aromas of orange oil, green apple, toasted bread and white flowers, the 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is medium to full-bodied, with a rounder, fleshier profile than the Derrière Chez Edouard, but similarly tensile and mineral in underlying structure. Long and penetrating, this is built to age.

Wafting from the glass with a gently reductive bouquet of toasted bread, iodine, white flowers and crisp orchard fruit, Lamy's 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is medium to full-bodied, layered and precise, with fine depth at the core, chalky structuring extract and a bright, delicately honeyed finish.

The 2016 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière, which originates from a parcel with a more southerly exposure compared to others farmed by Olivier Lamy, has a clean and precise bouquet with white peach, orange pith and subtle aniseed scents. The palate is very well balanced with more depth and fruit intensity than the Les Frionnes, touches of tangerine and white peach laced with bitter lemon, leading to a harmonious and quite long finish. Excellent.