A beautiful Chardonnay for drinking now. It’s dry and crisp, with pineapple, peach and pear flavors accented with vanilla oak and creaminess from lees aging. Despite the richness, there’s a firm minerality, a tang of steel that makes the wine bracing. The grapes are from a vineyard in the southerly, cool Coombsville area, an area that needs its own appellation.——S.H.(9/1/2010)—— 94