With a drawing of a large-eyed owl on its front label, the Ignaz Niedrist 2018 Alto Adige Weissburgunder Berg is a pure expression of Pinot Bianco, a grape that does exceptionally well in the cool-climate, high-altitude vineyards of Italy's Dolomites. The vineyards in this case are located in the Appiano Monte area, at 500 to 600 meters above sea level, with calcareous soils at the foot of the Massiccio and Mendola peaks. Pinot Bianco is not an overtly aromatic grape, and it often offers rather neutral aromas when cultivated in warmer climates. Cool-climate Alto Adige brings out the delicate pear, melon and nectarine aromas that come naturally to the variety. It also magically evokes notes of saffron, dried herb and crushed stone. These are terrific results that award freshness and purity. Much like the owl, a symbol of wisdom, this steel-fermented and aged wine makes clever use of it variety and territorial identity. Some 7,000 bottles were released.