The Tenuta San Leonardo 2017 San Leonardo (in a heavy glass bottle) shows subtle but unmistakable generosity and exuberance that is absolutely in line with this hot vintage. In this regard, the 2017 stands apart from past vintages from this estate that is celebrated for its elegant, undertone and long-term approach. This wine is slightly more accessible too, with plush, dark fruit, balanced oak spice and perfumed rose over a polished, silky mouthfeel.

A wine to drink at least 10 years from now, the 2016 San Leonardo is positioned to be enjoyed in the far long term. Like its Tuscan cousin from Bolgheri, Sassicaia, San Leonardo from the mountainous north of Italy is always a wine that starts off quietly but that grows in intensity and complexity as it completes its bottle evolution. This elegant vintage reveals beautiful tones of dark berry fruit, spice and freshly milled white pepper. The wine is exceptionally balanced, fresh and long. I can't wait to come back to this vintage 10 or 20 years from now.

The 2015 San Leonardo pours forth with a beautiful velvety appearance and sultry dark garnet color. This wine shows a lot of life and dark fruit purity with black plum, blackberry, cassis and tarry prune. There is a delightful note of black pepper that is specific to this warm and sunny vintage. The fruit shows softer and richer concentration compared to past vintages and more pulpy density that gives this edition a bigger profile in terms of mouthfeel. Production is 75,000 bottles. San Leonardo is a wine made for long aging, but the nice thing about this vintage is that the bouquet remains quite accessible at this young age. Nevertheless, I'd still suggest keeping this bottle in your cellar so that it can calmly finish its evolution.

The Tenuta San Leonardo 2014 San Leonardo has fleshed out nicely since I tasted the wine in a preview capacity a few years back. The cool, humid vintage is associated with a tendency toward greener flavors and thinner wines in many of its peers. You get some of that here; however, the wine shows a bouquet that has expanded far beyond those youthful parameters to show dark cherry, cassis, toasted nut and mountain herb. The tannins are polished but firm, and there's just enough textural snap or elasticity to hope for a long and healthy cellar aging. As usual with Tenuta San Leonardo, you need to have patience before opening this wine. Production is 70,000 bottles.

The flagship wine from this celebrated Trentino estate was not produced in 2012. We do have the stunning 2013 San Leonardo on the market now. This vintage is large in scale and has immediate intensity, and I am somewhat surprised by the volume and seamless bouquet that appears this early in the game. This vintage shows balanced ripeness with plummy fruit aromas that are carefully contrasted against spice, leather and fine tobacco. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Merlot, and San Leonardo is always aged in barrique for four years (of which only 25% of the barrels are new). This is a bottle to keep long (extra long) in your cellar.