The 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Margone shows the level the estate is capable of with its finest wines. Dark cherries, tar, licorice and smoke are some of the notes that emerge from this layered Chianti Classico. Elements of rusticity remain, but there is more than enough going on in the glass to compensate to a large degree. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Il Molino di Grace is one of the most perplexing wineries in Chianti Classico. For the life of me I can’t understand why these wines are so inconsistent from year to year. I am sure the estate could kick things up a notch or three.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Margone is a big, hulking wine. The fruit is decidedly over-ripe, which introduces elements of oxidation and advancing aromas that are out of character in this vintage. Ideally, the wine is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799